Holiday Wine Book Buying Guide
Ideas for books to buy for your friends and relations.
This is the week, the last week of free newsletters. Next week will only go out to the paid subscribers, I’m sorry. It’s only five dollars a month and if you sign up for a year, it’s only forty, for the whole year. I hope you get as much joy out of these as I get in writing them.
This book buying guide is by no means an exhaustive list of books about wine. I’ve whittled this list to books that I think are the most useful and engaging. Since this a book buying guide and not a list of my library, I’m going to give five main suggestions that I think any wine enthusiast would enjoy. Think of it was a here are my top recommendations. After the top I’ve split the list into seven categories; General Knowledge, Regional, Specific (nuanced), Memoir/Food and Wine/Story, Armchair Agronomy and For the Collector. Thank you and please enjoy this modest list of books for the wine lover in your life.
Top Books
“The New Frank Schoonmaker Encyclopedia to Wine” by Alexis Bespaloff, William Marrow & Co. (1988)
A fantastic book for finding linguistic artifacts and then actually being able to retain the knowledge you searched for in the first place. If you want an up-to-date encyclopedia on wine, the best place is Wikipedia. You’re not going to find an entry on Flash Deante in Bespaloff’s edition. “The New Frank Shoonmaker Encyclopedia” is a book for understanding more than a quick fact about a subject. For example, the entry for hectoliter in most wine encyclopedias would be 1 Hectoliter = 100 liters (correct), but the entry in “The Schoonmaker Encyclopedia” goes on to explain that “A hectoliter is equal to 133 bottles of 75CL each or 11 cases; thus a yield of 45 hectos per hectare amounts to 495 cases per hectare or 200 cases per acre.”
“The World Atlas of Wine” by Jancis Robinson, Mitchell Beazley ( 2013, ‘19)
The first book that every wine enthusiast should have. You can instantly contextualize the wine you’re drinking by seeing where it comes from. Robinson’s atlas is widely accepted the authority on wine maps. Don’t worry about buying the latest edition. The 8th will run you $45, while a used copy of the 7th is going for $5.53 right now. I know this book regularly appears on buying guides but I would feel irresponsible if they purchased a book of wine maps for a loved one that was a new wine devotee and it wasn’t “The World Atlas of Wine.”
“Champagne” by Peter Liem, Ten Speed Press (2017)
Mr. Liem is the expert’s expert on wine and “Champagne” is the authoritative book on it’s titular subject. This book won all the awards in wine writing that are available and I think they made a few new ones in it’s wake. If you’re trying to buy for a wine professional this would be a lovely present. (Comes with MAPS!!!)
“Native Wine Grapes of Italy” by Ian D’Agata, University of California Press (2014)
I don’t believe that there is a book I use more in my daily life than Ian D’Agata’s “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.” Let’s say you’re confronted with a bottle of Cannonau from Sardinia. The Wikipedia entry takes you to Grenache, which is true, but D’Agata spends four pages on the history of the grape and Spanish grape growing in Sardinia. The Wikipedia page on Grenache doesn’t talk about how in the 1980s Italian nurseries mislabeled eighty percent of Cannonau as Tocai Rosso. So that bottle in your hand might actually be Tocai Rosso and not Cannonau.
“Shadows in the Vineyard” by Maximillian Porter, Twelve (2015)
A real masterpiece of writing in wine. Part mystery, part retelling of the tumultuous history of Romanee-Conti, the arguably most famous vineyard in the world. Gripping is the word that comes to mind when describing his book.
I would recommend, “Adventures Along the Wine Route” by Kermit Lynch in this section and do recommend it, however it is the widest read book in the wine world. My recommendation does little for it’s esteem, since it’s esteem is so great. What I’m trying to say in too many words is that I’d look like a no-talent-hack if I had Mr. Lynch’s memoir at the top of the list.
General Knowledge/Primers
“Grossman’s Guide to Spirits and Wine” by Harrold J. Grossman Charles Scribner’s Sons, (1940-1983)
A reliable workhorse book for a semi deep investigation of wine regions and drinks that aren’t wine. It’s a very good starting place for wine investigation.
“Wine All the Time: The Casual Guide to Drinking” by Marissa A Ross, Plume (2017)
At the end of the day we need some light hearted wine writing to remind us that wine, like any subject, can play and be fun. Really though, if you’re a beginner it’s a good beginning and if you’ve been on the fence about reading it, I’d say go for it.
“Wines of Europe” by Julian Jeffs, Faber, (1971)
Julian Jeffs is as informative as he is an engaging writer. Jeffs has an uncanny ability to write with humility, while at the same time producing an almost encyclopedic volume on wine.
“Wine Grapes” by Jancis Robinson ($$$) Harper-Collins (2012)
Wine Grapes is a useful and ubiquitous book that merits the high praise heaped upon the work. You will see Robinson’s work cited in almost every grape Wikipedia entry.
Regional Wine Books
“The Wines of Bordeaux” by Edumund Pennin-Rowsell Penguin (1989)
If you’re looking for Bordeaux crib notes, look elsewhere. Mr. Penning-Rowsell has written one of the finest and most extensive volumes on the Aquitaine’s famous wine growing region. I will go as far as saying it’s one of the best written book on a wine region. It’s a delight to read, even if you’re not a fan of Bordeaux.
“The New California Wine” by Jon Bonne
If you’re wondering what’s happening in California, then this is the book for you. Bonne brings the reader up to date on recent history and the issues surrounding wine in California. It a good start for someone that is taking an interest in Californian wine.
“Moselle” by Loeb and Prittie, Faber and Faber (1972)
The most up to date English language book on the Mosel valley growing region. Beyond that it has great vintage descriptions, starting in the 1800’s. Well thought out and planned it’s one of the best recourses out there.
“Vino Italiano” by Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch, Crown Publishing (2005)
Even though it clocks in at over 500 pages, Vino Italiano is the most concise and accurate books on Italian wine.
“Making Sense of Burgundy” by Matt Kramer, William Marrow & Co (1990)
“The Wines of California” by Stephen Brooks, Faber and Faber (1999)
“The Wines of Germany” by Frank Schoonmaker
Specific (Nuanced) Wine Books
“Napa: The Story of an American Eden” by James Conway, Mariner Books (2002)
The entire series from start to fish strips away the marketing romance surrounding Napa Valley and accounts the realities of Napa’s corporate takeover. A full bodied adventure if you will, haha.
“Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine” by Dr. Jamie Goode, University of California Press (2018)
A very good way to take all those anecdotes you’ve heard about TCA or volatile acidity and check them against a real source of information. I had the misfortune of trying the audiobook, stick with a hardcopy. It’s a fascinating book, one subject at a time. I mean it’s the only book about flaws in wine.
“Lafite” by Cyril Ray Stein and Day (1968)
Britain’s most celebrated wine writer of the 60’s tackles the heady project of documenting one of the most celebrated wineries in Bordeaux. It’s a fun read and full of wonderful insight. He has other works on specific wineries, this is the one that I’ve read, so that’s why I’m recommending it.
“Wine Interview: Conversational Guide English-French” by Laetitia Perraut (2002)
If I spoke French well enough, this would be crucial resource for beefing up my vocabulary in French wine speak. I’ve purchased this book a second time after losing it in a move. Probably gave it away one night after diner, but I don’t feel like remembering and tracking that person down.
“Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine” by Michael Broadbent, Time Warner Books UK (2003)
Even though Mr. Broadbent may have been supplied spurious examples of vintages from the 17 and 1800’s that doesn’t nullify every review offered in this book. Although I have no proof, I’d say that we can assume reviews from 1880’s onwards can be taken as accurate (Probably 1800’s but I’m hedging my bets).
Memoir, Food and Wine, Story
“Adventures on the Wine Route” by Kermit Lynch, Faber, Straus & Garioux (1988)
“Adventures on the Wine Route” is the Great American Wine Novel. Should be studied and taught at Wine Writer’s college. Should accompany the first bottle of wine anyone purchases. Every single wine seller should stock them and every wine bar should play the audiobook over the PA system.
“Between Meals” by A.J. Liebling.
If you’ve been off food for a little time this book will put you back on the wagon. After Mr. Lynch’s Memoir, this is the book to buy. Liebling recalls living it up in middle class Post-War Paris. Creating the kind of life we wish was still around and we were smart enough to enjoy.
“Provence A-Z” by Peter Mayle, Random House (2009)
I’m recommending this as an audiobook. Every year in August when the earth is dry and air warm, I don the headphones and work in the sun while listening to facts about Provence. It’s a very pleasant experience, so I guess I’m recommending that as much as the book. “A-Z” is an accompaniment to Mayle’s “A Year in Provence,” which I also recommend, but for some reason I find this book more digestible and interesting than the longer memoir.
“10 Vineyard Lunches” by Richard Olney, Interlink Publishing Group (1988)
I recommend every single one of Richard Olney’s books. You’ll ask “Matt, how many Olney do I need?” , “All of them,” I always reply. In “10 Vineyard Lunches” Mr. Olney examines the traditional cuisine of ten wine regions in France. The best part is a prepared menu and recipe for a lunch that you can cook on your own. I guess that’s the point of a cookbook, but it feels like a treat.
“Notes on a Cellar Book” by George Saintsbury, Hard Press, Reprint (2018)
Arguably the first wine criticism in the English language. You have to parse a lot of the information out, but it’s the first, what else do you want? No really, that’s kind of the author’s stance to most of his audience, not the reader though. It’s good, I whole heartedly recommend this book.
“Billionaire’s Vinegar” by Benjamin Wallace, Three Rivers (2009)
It’s a good story and a fun lens into the world of high end wine auctions and the rich folks that buy them and the folks that rip them off.
Armchair Agronomy
“One Straw Revolution” by Masanobu Fukuoka, NYRB Classics, (2010)
An introspective breeze of a book. Fukuoka takes us through and back into thinking about nature without our impulse mold the landscape to our devises. If you like this book then definitely read, “One Straw Revolutionary” by John Korn, Chelsea Green Publishing (2015). Korn was Fukuoka’s life long student. In this memoir he recalls his with Mr. Fukuoka and also compares and contrasts traditional farming methods with modern organic principles.
“What Are People For” by Wendel Barry, North Point Press (1990)
The seminal book critiquing American consumerism and our economic system in relation to our resources, without sounding like a jerk about it. Berry is always approachable and friendly and is able to confront harsh realities of what the future may hold if we don’t change our current mindset.
“Permaculture: A Designer’s Manual” by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay
The first book about and great touchtone for understanding Permaculture. It’s actually a little bit better than the “Intro to Permaculture” by Mr. Mollison.
“Lentil Underground” by Liz Carlise, Avery (2016)
Carlise follows the farmers that took Robert Frost’s second path, the lentil path. It’s a good read and a great motivator.
“Omnivores Dilemma” by Michael Pollan, Penguin Books (2011)
Everything is corn, it’s mostly of what we eat. Pollan brings us deep into industrial farming and the food processing process, but pulls us back out. He’s able to show us a way out through the work of many farmers around the country. A classic consumer awareness book. It should be spoken in the same sentence as “Silent Spring” and maybe “The Jungle.”
“The Holistic Orchard” by Michael Phillips, Chelsea Green Press (2012)
Links permaculture and the life of an orchard to the life of the single tree and ecosystem.
“Emily Dickenson’s Gardening Life” by Martha McDowell, Timber Press (2019)
I’m a devotee of Dickenson’s, her work has always inspired me. Her wit, charm and frankness are constantly visible. Now you get to see some of her motivations and inspirations that shaped her poetry. Although it’s not necessary to have a deep interest in botany or plant physiology enjoy wine, it does help you become a better person. It’s free meditation on an endless subject and don’t we all need that?
Books About Collecting Wine Books
“Wine into Words: A History and Bibliography of Wine Books in the English Language” by James M. Gabler, Bacchus Press (2004)
Gabler’s tome resumes cataloging of wine literature where Andre Simon’s “Bibliothecas vinaria” leaves us. It’s an invaluable resource when tracking down a citation or a book mention in an old article. It does stop at 2001, so most of the digital age is left unlisted.
If you have anywhere between 8 and 100 hours to spare, head on over to the Wayward Tendrils Quarterly website. They were a book collecting club with a quarterly newsletter that ran from 1991-2015. WTQ has a searchable index and every single issue is in PDF format. The first issue I read sent me into a corkscrew history research mania for three days.
The Collector
“The Gun Club Drink Book” by Charles Browne, Charles Scribner’s Sons (1939)
Far and away the most light hearted and fun drinks book ever written. It inspired many of my articles and lends part of it’s name of the “Drink Zine.” Charles Browne is a wit and Leonard Holton’s illustrations bring the book to life. It’s expensive, like $300, so if you see the Gun Club Drink Book for $100 and can part with the necessary rhino to purchase the thing, you should do so without hesitation.
“The Gun Club Cook Book” by Charles Brown, Charles Scribner’s Sons (1930)
Before the Drink Book was the Cook Book and is also a well written and hilarious, but also expensive.
The Entire Series of Constable’s Wine Library ed by Andre Simon
This was one of the first series of books on wine available in post prohibition America. Andre Simon is both a fantastic writer and a collector of all books vinous. So it isn’t strange that he would compile one of the best collections of information about wine. Published in the 1930’s these books represent a holistic view of the amassed wine knowledge of post war Britain and America.
Looking forward to:
“Maestro: Andre Tchelistcheff and the Rebirth of Napa Valley” by James o Grump
“Cocktails a L'americain” by Zac Overman